At the edge of the world. Journey to Dungeness

Often referred to as the UK’s only desert, the Kent coastal headland of Dungeness has a magical atmosphere. The vast, pebble-strewn landscape is lined with weathered wooden cottages and abandoned fishing boats, a true escapist’s paradise and the perfect place to relax and disconnect from the world.

But as romantic as the claim of a desert may sound, to be considered a desert, an area must receive less than 250 millimeters of rainfall per year – in Dungeness it receives much more than that. The sea kale, sea holly, orchids, rachis, sorrel, sage, sage, bugloss, poppies and 600 other plant species growing here are proof of this.

Pink Floyd: A Collection of Great Dance Songs album cover photo

Anyway, in 1981 the local views appeared on the cover of Pink Floyd: A Collection of Great Dance Songs and music videos have been filmed here by bands such as The Lighthouse Family, The Thrills, The Prodigy, Athlete, Aled Jones and Turin Brakes.

How to get there

You can schedule a steam train ride by clicking here.

Getting from London without a car is a challenge with an asterisk. You can take the train to Rye and from there the bus. But the more exciting option is to take the train, which follows a miniature railroad from Hythe, a small seaside town also in Kent. Along the pebbly coastal plain, a tiny gleaming steam engine puffs boldly past wooden huts to drop off its passengers at the foot of a black lighthouse. And give them a real adventure.

What to do

The old lighthouse

You can schedule your visit by clicking here.

The historic Grade II building, which from 1904 to 1960 saved ships from the dangers that often awaited them in the Channel, can now be visited by anyone. It is the fourth lighthouse to be built on the Cape since 1615. The pebbly shores gradually grew and the light of the lighthouse did not reach the ships at sea – each time it was necessary to erect higher and higher structures. Subsequently, a fifth and automatic lighthouse was installed closer to the water’s edge, where it still operates today. And the fourth lighthouse, now known as the “Old Lighthouse”, became a museum.

Prospect Cottage

You can schedule your visit by clicking here.

Attracted by the cinematic beauty of the local desert landscape, British avant-garde filmmaker, screenwriter and artist, and winner of three Teddy Awards (a special prize at the Berlin Film Festival recognizing the best LGBT-themed films) – Derek Jarman – moved to Dungeness in 1986. Here he worked on films, books, painted pictures and cultivated his famous garden.

When Jarmen was in the process of creating his front garden, local fishermen feared that something occult was going on at the property. “People thought I was building the garden for magical purposes,” Jarmen recalled, “a white witch trying to get her hands on a nuclear power plant. Even after Jarmen’s death, the garden gained a reputation as “legendary,” attracting tourists and generating pride among locals. His concept – a flower garden in a barren space – has been reconstructed many times in London, for example at the Garden Museum and at Bold Tendencies in Peckham.

The director’s house is full of all sorts of details and to this day is a mecca not only for connoisseurs of his work, but also for anyone who wants to immerse themselves in the awe-inspiring atmosphere of creativity amidst the desolate landscape. Stones, pieces of iron, rusty tin cans, and driftwood are carefully and methodically laid out in the house and studio along with discarded action figures, crucifixes, and paintings.

Bird-watching.

The vast area of Dungeness is a nature reserve with a great variety of birds. Herbivore, lapwing, sandpiper and kingfisher are just a small part of the local feathered inhabitants. If you haven’t yet tried a calming hobby like birdwatching, Dungeness is a great place to start. Download a map of the trails (ranging from 1.5 to 4 miles each) or walk your own, looking for interesting local wildlife.

Artist studios

There are several art studios and galleries in the neighborhood: artist Paddy Hamilton , for example, exhibits paintings and linocuts.

Photographer Chris Shore and artist Helen Taylor sell their work in a unique showroom made from Edwardian railroad carriages.

Artist Helen Gillian’s pink house is Ocean View Gallery. As well as creating paintings and prints, she also works with textiles.

Where to eat

The Snack Shack

The Snack Shack, a containerized family cafe, offers beach (and sunset) views and freshly caught seafood. The menu depends on the morning’s catch, but you won’t be left without fish and crab rolls.